Back in Chicago

Out of interest we have visited 14 States and done just under 3500 miles:

  • Illinois 
  • Indiana 
  • Ohio 
  • Pennsylvania 
  • Maryland 
  • Virginia 
  • West Virginia 
  • North Carolina 
  • South Carolina 
  • Georgia 
  • Tennessee 
  • Kentucky 
  • Missouri 
  • Iowa 

    Sadly Illinois isn’t the most interesting state to ride through. However we knew that when planning the trip so haven’t had to face disappointment. What did surprise us was how poor the road surfaces were – dreadful. Andy believes Illinois may be quite a hard up state hence little money spent on infrastructure? 

    We’ll be giving the bikes back tomorrow and neither of us will be too sorry to do so. Both of us had a good idea what riding a Harley Davidson would be like but hoped the reality would be better than the stories we’d heard. Also neither of us regret the decision to hire them as a) we’ve experienced riding America on its iconic motorcycle and b) no other hire bike offered us the dealership network/security HD did. However they are primitive and very unresponsive compared to Japanese and European bikes. Their main virtue was the seat was comfortable, unfortunately this was negated by their screens terrible airflow design which caused excessive buffering.  But that’s life. (Picture below is of final ‘on the road’ hotel in Zion near Chicago.)

    Le Claire, Iowa

    This morning we went to Mark Twain’s cave – where he played as a boy and wrote about in his novels. We were in the first tour at 9:30am along with about ten Americans. The tour guide and tour were superb with everybody in good spirit. We then set out for Le Claire – we were going to Davenport but the tour guide at the cave said Le Claire, which is next to it, might be better. It’s also the home to the TV programme ‘American Pickers’. We started out on Route 61 which runs alongside the Mississippi all the way. Sadly my satnav took us over the river into Illinois and we travelled in a more or less straight line through flat, featureless farmland for about one hundred and fifty miles! You just set the cruise control, try not to fall asleep and let your mind wander. We did find a family run diner though and had a very nice and homely brunch. Eventually we got to Le Claire, a pretty touristy small town on the Mississippi, and settled into a good but quite inexpensive hotel. We had a ‘light’ meal for supper. To  lake Michigan tomorrow. 

    Mark Twain Country

    Andy had two simple tasks for today. The first was to find somewhere interesting to spend tonight with a view to a bit of sightseeing tomorrow.  The second was to go and check out a hotel I stopped at – as I’ve got the satnav I usually ride in front. As to the first task, he chose Springfield where he said there where famous caves that they ran tours through. Well after visiting The Gateway Arch in St. Louis we stopped for Brunch. Experience told me to check the caves out at this junction. Now apart from the fictional town that Homer Simpson lives in, there are probably another fifty odd Springfields spread across America, and the one with the caves was about three hundred and fifty miles away going in the opposite direction to the one we wanted to go in (there is also a Springfield about one hundred miles away towards Chicago). Doh! We laughed. I then suggested we go to Hannibal where Mark Twain lived. It’s on the Mississippi and has a cave to explore (Andy likes the idea of caves as they’re cool and he’s feeling the heat at the moment). Once there Andy was sent into the downtown hotel I stopped at. Out he came with a long face saying he didn’t think much of it. After a little discussion we went back; river view, breakfast included, indoor swimming pool, friendly staff and $90 – what’s not to like?

    As to the day generally, we did about two hundred and thirty miles, crossed the Mississippi about five times and rode some lovely roads. Equally though we rode over some plains that were thirty or forty miles of just flat empty farmland. We didn’t go into the city centre of St. Louis as experience has taught us that big American cities can be a nightmare to ride into for not much gain, especially if you’re wearing all your hot and heavy motorcycle gear. We did though ride through very empty and poor suburbs on the east side of the river. Lots of empty and rundown factories and houses and dreadfully maintained roads – not somewhere we wanted to stop at. Interestingly we’ve noticed that there are never any pull-ins on the roads nor any public toilets. A hundred miles and not one lay-by! What do Americans do when they want a wee? After booking into the hotel in Hannibal and cooling down, we went for a stroll to the banks of the Mississippi – which is pretty huge even this far upstream. Then to the Mark Twain Brewery where not only do they brew beer but they also have a bar and restaurant. Had a light dinner as we’ve been eating too much generally and then retired early as we’re both knackered. Good day. Mark Twain’s caves tomorrow. 

    Cape Girardeau

    We have just visited Poppies Louisiana Kitchen and had the best fried chicken I’ve ever tasted. We also got approached by a ‘good old boy’ who told us our man bags made us stand out as non-American – a bit of a Jeremy Clarkson moment for those who remember the Top Gear gang being run out of an American southern state because they had Gay slogans on one of their cars! 

    This morning we went to the Grand Ole Opry. It’s located on the outskirts of Nashville and is a nice but not exceptional building. Back stage tours were fairly expensive and they didn’t know when they’d start, so we rode on. We visited four states in today’s two hundred miles trip and still haven’t seen a ‘gator – though had to avoid a tortoise crossing the road. Brunch was at a really eccentric diner run by three aging sisters and their mother. We were their only customers and got very personal service as they were keen to know where we came from etc. The food wasn’t bad either. The ride today wasn’t exceptional as the roads were long, flat and empty through fields or forests.  We crossed the Mississippi three times!

    Nashville

    Sadly Nashville has been a bit of a disappointment. Firstly, the hotel we’re staying at is rather Fawlty Towers ish. While it is very close to downtown Nashville it’s also showing signs of its age and overuse plus the staff don’t quite treat you as valued customers – rather just another group of tourists passing through. Andy nearly threw a major paddy last night when he discovered his mattress was covered with a plastic waterproof cover – that rustled. I thought it showed the hotel cared and didn’t want all its guests to share leaking body fluids with each other. In the end we removed it, laughed, and had a good nights sleep. After breakfast we went downtown in the hotel shuttle: well we did after listening to the reception staff discussing the fact it wasn’t running because it was low on gas and they weren’t going to use there own money to gas it. In the end one of them got it and took us downtown. We then decided to tour the city centre in a free shuttle bus. However as it was coming towards us it hit some road signs and the very flustered driver said she couldn’t carry on until her boss had seen the damage. Later another shuttle turned up and we toured round. Not a lot to see we concluded. After a second breakfast in a pleasant little cafe the heavens opened so we went to the Country Music Hall of Fame Museum – which was interesting. Then to a bar with a live group playing before going back to the hotel. Tonight we have, hopefully, found a nice German restaurant nearby. And tomorrow we’ll visit the Grand Ole Opry House which is nearly ten miles from the city centre. 

    Tennessee (2)

    Today we rode through Tennessee to Nashville via the Jack Daniels distillery. A number of things became clear: A) Tennessee is a very pretty state – for a long way we rode adjacent to the Tennessee river and through lush countryside on empty roads. Gorgeous. B) Americans are odd drivers, they just don’t overtake you outside of cities. We rode slowly to enjoy the scenery and queues of one or three cars would slowly build up behind us regardless of all the opportunities to overtake. Odd? C) for every ten people in the ‘bible states’ there must be a church, chapel or whatever. If there is a God s/he must spend a lot of time in America!  D) the Americans are good at doing tourist attractions – our ‘dry’ tour of the Jack Daniels distillery was silky smooth as have been the other tours we’ve been on. E) Nashville is unreal! It’s downtown centre is just heaving with hen and stag parties, family holidaymakers and couples clearly having a weekend away. It’s also very expensive. This evening we went in a club or two with live music – tomorrow we’ll visit some of the iconic venues.